May 10, 2005

Amman, Jordan - 5/7/2005: Art Can Hurt You

filed under: Despatches

A continuing series of periodic Procrastinet Despatches from Amman, Jordan. By Nicholas Seeley.

One thing that living outside the US really puts a different perspective on is the functionality of culture. Art is a funny thing over here.

There’s a lot going on, and nothing, all at once -- it’s like Dickens, if he were really, really stoned. All my friends make art, but they never do shows. Then they all complain that there are no shows. Everybody has a dozen hobbies, but no one makes art. Except when someone does, then everyone hates it. I’m in a bunch of different little cultural “salons” – I even started one of them – but still, I often feel like there’s no one asking the big questions.

When I was in Cambodia, the cinemas showed a weird mixture of American, Thai and Cambodian films. I went to one of the latter, and found it absolutely unwatchable – but it had all the right elements – romance, mysticism, horror. The local audience loved it. It said something to them about life. Here, I theoretically write the art column for my magazine, but in four months there hasn’t been anything worth writing about that wasn’t done by one of the magazine’s staff members.

My friend who was in Iraq a few months ago came back wide-eyed with amazement over all the ART they have there – people making it, people selling it, people appreciating it. They’re getting blown up, but at least they appreciate Jim Jarmusch, right? Baghdad, he says, that’s a real city. Not like this place. Someone in one of those salons told me this saying: “Books are written in Egypt, printed in Lebanon, and read in Iraq.” You notice it doesn’t mention Jordan. Not surprising; I don’t think this country is old enough to be in sayings yet.

What it all adds up to is this: the sense of something sterile about the culture here. The feeling that between all the malls and big hotels and western-style-whatevers, there isn’t really any real Jordan to get down to, just falafel and despondency.

You get used to certain aspects of “cultural difference” – people have different manners, different values, laugh at different jokes. But some things still blow your mind. In so many ways, the visible differences between Jordanian and American culture are such minor things that it’s hard to get your head around the big ones – like the fact that this culture appears to place an entirely different value on acts of cultural creation than we do.

There are a lot of possible reasons for this. The culture that is valued here is almost exclusively tied to religion. The invasion of American/European culture has pushed out so much that’s indigenous. People have been without art so long, they don’t think they can do it anymore. Funding gets tied up in messy issues of political patronage.

Since I got here, one of my goals here has been to figure out what the hell is up with this place and art. I haven’t even come close to doing it, and, as such, have ended up almost completely avoiding the topic in my columns here. So, over the next couple weeks, I will treat you all to some of my own inconclusive musings about the art scene here. (You lucky people!) I also have a couple new pieces coming out, and a couple old ones I want to start putting up on my own site that deal with the art issue, and I’ll link to them as they come up.

I don’t claim to be solving or proving anything here -- in fact I find my own opinion changes from day to day – I’m just going to provide a few snapshots (or, maybe, blurry watercolors) of the culture here. Maybe one of y’all can figure it out.

- Nicholas Seeley, 5/7/05

Posted by rjt at May 10, 2005 11:55 AM
Comments

Hi Nicholas! I know you but you don't remember me. I am one of the folks who had made your acquaintance in Amman. I have finally found the time to read your blog. While you are a nice guy, I am not sure your perception of reality is not tainted by your fertile imagination. You don't write reports, you write plays in which you are the protagonist. Jordan is your theater and the US is your audience. But not for long. I think you are desperate for a place where you can nurse your insecurities and inadequacies by nurture your feelings of superiority over others you believe are inferior to you. You could not have made it back in the US so you take refuge in a far away country and you complain about how much smarter you are from the rest of them. I have known many such as yourself, a very insecure kid and a refurbished orientalist. Come on Nicholas. Take a deap breath...get into the next plane heading out of Amman to NY and just do something with your life instead of badmouthing and mocking the folk who open up their homes and friendships to you. You are no Lawrence of Arabia nor will there be any in the future. you are just an angry kid who needs to be in a place where you can be angry all the time without repercussions.

Posted by: Muna at May 15, 2005 09:34 AM

i guess it's none of my business to get involved in this, but i couldn't help saying something. muna - you seem to have absorbed every negative thing that nick has said in his entries and none of the positive. i've never been to jordan but from whatever limited insight i've gained from reading this blog, my impression of its people is far from bad. frankly, nick is a much harsher critic of americans and their failings than anything. also, people who want to nurse their feelings of superiority without having any aspect of their worldview questioned are the people who *stay* in their apartments in nyc. surely making an effort to go to new places and experience other cultures and peoples before forming your opinions is preferable to that? (i say from my apartment in central ohio.) if you dislike the practice of intentionally belittling others in front of an audience, as you claim to, maybe you should have tried to have a dialogue with nick about your thoughts in person or over email, instead of by using this means, or at least this tone.

Posted by: laura at May 15, 2005 04:14 PM

Nice going Laura. So not only we get mocked in public, we get lectured for presenting our counter point of view on the same forum and to the same audience. I am not sure I like this double standard. But we are no strangers to your double standards.

Posted by: Muna at May 16, 2005 02:00 AM

Muna -

As a matter of fact, Muna, I do remember you, and, after giving your critique the full 30 seconds of consideration it deserves, I have this to say:

Blow me.

No one said this was the New York Times; just another immature american spouting off about his neuroses. You don't like it, start your own blog.

Posted by: Nick at May 17, 2005 11:03 AM

Wait a minute...

This isn't the New York Times?

Well what the FRIG have I been publishing this for, then?! Oh, that's right, to make friends and influence people.

No, that's not it.

Oh, right: because I happen to like this particular immature American and how he spouts off about his neuroses.

On one grudgingly substantive note: I think readers will notice that, over the course of Nick's Despatches, he has never abused anyone individually and treats the people he talks about with great - if acerbic - respect. Cultures maybe not so much (his own or anybody's), but people get treated quite kindly.

Okay, except maybe for that "blow me" thing.

Posted by: rjt at May 17, 2005 12:41 PM

OK, so Procrastinet isn't the NYT. But it's not just Nick spouting off about his neuroses. Or, more to the point, if it was about nothing it wouldn't be worth reading. It's journalism. For a guy like myself it's a nice way to learn a little about Jordan or whever Nick happens to be. As such the value is diminished if critiques are falling on deaf ears. But all we've got going here is mud-slinging without anything new on the subject of the original post.

Muna is certainly right that Nick's an outsider who's only been in Jordan a little while. I have no way of knowing if Nick's totally misrepresenting reality and opposing viewpoints would be nice to hear. But Nick's got a shared cultural experience with his US audience which provides a reference point and makes it easier for us to weigh what he says. So, while acknowledging the long history of westerners going to other countries and reporting back patronizing, exoticized bull, I think it'd be wrong to say that Nick's goals have no value or are untennable. Afterall, look at Alexis de Tocqueville.

Posted by: Lorrin at May 22, 2005 12:41 AM

While there is a certain amount of truth in Muni's statement, I agree with Laura that his criticisms would find a better reception had they been made face to face.

Muni's criticisms are valid until he starts putting Nick on the couch, talking about his "insecurities" and "feelings of superiority over others you believe are inferior to you."

Having interacted with Nick for many years, I would suggest that Nick's "feelings of superiority" are quite accurate: he is, quite simply, superior to most of the inhabitants of this world. He is guided by principle, and acts according to those lights, even when it's against his own best interests. He refuses the aid and support of those who love him because they don't agree with his politics or lifestyle. They love him anyway.

Throughout most of his life I've thought of Nick as the next best thing to the Second Coming. And I have no doubt that he will, when he is confident of "being his own man," return to the USA where he can best lobby for his ideas. Unless he gets himself killed by being in the right place at the wrong time.

Posted by: A longtime admirer of Nick at August 1, 2005 11:50 AM